FEATURES
FEATURES
Where Ancient Arabia Dwells
Dubai's Creek and Heritage District
By Habeeb Salloum
Not having traveled
to the city, most people throughout the world do not know the
enticing picture of Dubai, the economic heart of the United Arab Emirates.
The Capital of the Emirate or State of Dubai, it is a fantasyland, come
true - a spic and span metropolis, preserving its past and luring tourists and
businesspeople from the four corners of the globe with its almost unreal
fairytale image.
Stranger
than a tale from a Thousand and One Nights, the modern story of Dubai is truly
an epic of a released genie going about its work of building a fairytale city.
Visionary ideas for many mega-projects are fully grasped and quickly
implemented, as Dubai works its way to become the world’s premier ‘nation
resort’.
Entrepreneurs
from all the four corners of the world continually flock in with plans for
something unique or different and often as not, they find willing ears.
The country’s officials dream big, and it seems, always realize their
dreams. Their achievements have
been responsible for the prestigious Financial Times publication, FDI Magazine
to name Dubai as the ‘Middle Eastern City of the Future’.
All
the activity has sent this throbbing heart of the United Arab Emirates into an
un-stoppable building boom, as represented by the Palm Islands – three
partially completed enormous manmade islands resembling palm trees that will
add some 520 km (323 mi) to Dubai’s coastline.
Self-declared the ‘eighth wonder of the world’, they are, besides
the Great Wall of China, the only manmade structure that can be seen from
outer space. One of these islands
has been completed and the other two are due to be in the next few years.
All will be saturated with tourist oriented luxury villas and boutique
hotels which can be purchased by the locals, expatriates and nationals of
other lands.
However,
the galloping of the city into the 21st century has not overtaken
the Dubains’ pride in their heritage. The
people remain attached to their cuisine, culture and pride in their past.
The Arab virtues of family values, hospitality, respect for others,
religious tolerance and pride in traditions remain among the most prized
assets among the people of Dubai, as well as the whole of the UAE in all
strata of society.
Much
of Dubai’s history is preserved in its collection of forts, mosques, palaces
and other historic monuments, edging a Creek that divides the city in two.
For years, Dubai's Creek, a meandering 14 km (8.7 mi) waterway, which
divides the city into Bur Dubai, the old section, and Deira, the so-called new
district (today, there are many newer districts) was the city's most famous
landmark. Lately, the lure of the
Creek has been greatly enhanced by the renovated ‘Heritage District’,
located in the Shindagha area of Bur Dubai at the mouth of the Creek.
Much of Dubai’s history is preserved in its collection of forts,
mosques, palaces and other historic monuments - on the itineraries of the
organized city tours.
The
Diving and Heritage Villages are the heart of this re-born district.
Much has been done to restore the area to its former glory, but work is
ongoing. Thirty-two traditional
homes are being rebuilt and plans are well underway, along the creek side, to
complete a number of promenades, punctuated with traditional cafes.
The
Diving and Heritage Villages feature potters and weavers practicing traditional crafts, as well as exhibits and demonstrations of pearl diving.
Visitors travel back in time to experience a taste of the city’s
past, its culture and legacy. The
heritage district, along with the Creek, have become one of Dubai's most
important tourist attractions.
The
Creek, responsible for the city's origin and for centuries its life-blood, is
a world of the old dominated by the new.
Along its shores a great many abras (water taxis) and dhows
(Arab sailing
ships) are anchored or sailing the smooth waters.
On the Bur Dubai side the skyline is spiked by minarets and wind-towers
- an ancient method of natural air conditioning; while on the Deira shore, the
towering modern 20th century edifices look down on the busy waters.
As
I stood on the edge of the Creek on the Deira side, dreaming about Dubai's
romantic past, the living tokens of the mysterious Orient across the water
drew me like a magnet. We could
have crossed the Creek by an abra, costing just a few cents, but we
chose a traditional four-wheeled taxi which sped us quickly over the Creek -
spanned by the Garhoud and Al Maktoum bridges - another is under construction
- and, at its mouth, the Shindagha Tunnel.
It dropped us off in the Bastakiya district of old Dubai, containing a
large concentration of traditional courtyard houses with wind towers.
For
an hour we wandered through its narrow alleyways examining the handsome old
homes with their beautifully carved doors and unique wind-towers.
It was a walk back into time - to the era before oil wealth transformed
Dubai into one of the most modern and beautiful cities in the world.
The
few remaining, mostly renovated, wind-towers give Bur Dubai its uniqueness.
They are a symbol of an age when men with very limited resources tried
to tame their harsh environment. Called
badgeer or alfajes, they were introduced to Dubai in the 19th
century by Persian merchants who settled in the Bastakiya and the nearby
Shindagha districts of the city.
Every
face of these square, breeze-catching structures is hollowed into a v-shaped
concave with arches, pillars and intricate plasterwork.
In appearance, they are like medieval louvres and were designed to trap
the wind from any direction then funnel it through a hollow shaft to the rooms
below.
The
air, as it passed down, increased in velocity, terminating just a short
distance above the floor. In the hot summer months, cushions were placed beneath the
shaft on which the family and guests relaxed, dined or slept.
During the winter months, to keep out the cool air, the vents were
blocked with wooden plugs. Before modern fans and air conditioning, the wind-towers were
a very effective method of keeping homes cool.
From
the reincarnated wind-towers, we strolled to the Shindagha district with its
Diving and Heritage Villages. Spread
over an area of 3,500 sq m (4,186 sq yd), the Heritage Village offers visitors
an overall glimpse of life in the Emirate of Dubai of long ago and acquaints
them with the traditional arts, crafts, cuisine and music of the UAE.
Traditional handicrafts can be bought at the numerous shops that make
up the souk (market) inside the Heritage Village.
Here
in the Dubai of the past, beside the countless restored structures with their
museums, the past is attractively kept alive in the daily lives of the people.
The colourful weddings with their henna ceremonies are enhanced by the ayyalah
al ardha,
an age-old male sword dance, bolstered by the women singing and dancing.
Drums and other percussion instruments provide the rhythmic beat for
the ayyalah while women performers called na'ashet cheer them
on.
The
optimum time to visit the Heritage Village is during the annual Dubai Shopping
Festival held from mid January to mid February when a dozen Arab countries
present their authentic Bedouin folklore.
The ethics of the Arabs such as chivalry, generosity, hospitality,
kindness and pride, as they were practised in the past, are celebrated in
dance, poetry and song. It is a taste of old Arabia extended to visitors from all
over the world.
In
the Village during the Festival, the swish of Arab
national dress, the
clinking of the bangles, the sparkle of traditional jewelery, the smell of
henna, the chatter of people
buying traditional medicine, the aroma of freshly
baked bread intermixed with that of freshly roasted coffee, the
twinkle of kholed
eyes, enshrouded with the sound of laughter, traditional craftsmen at work
weaving carpets and baskets, all evoke pleasant memories from an Arab culture
thousand of years old. Amid this
atmosphere, one easily travels back to ancient Arabia
- to the time when that land was a realm of mystery and romance.
And
this is not all. Women preparing the traditional bread, pastries and other
food go about their work in front of visitors from many lands.
Many of these, even from other Arab lands, do not know that Dubai has
long had its own cuisine. Dubai
foods and, in fact, most of the Arabian gulf dishes, have been passed down
from generation to generation and have remained an integral part of the modern
cuisine of the Arabian Gulf countries.
The response
from the hotel and restaurant chefs in re-creating these
foods for tourist
taste has been far beyond most peoples’ expectations.
Their enthusiastic participation in making these foods available to
guests showcases the local community’s contribution to Dubai’s culinary
world, and offers unique opportunities to expatriates and visitors to get an
authentic feel of Arabia.
Mr. Uwe Micheel, President of Emirates Culinary Guild, is quoted as saying when
discussing the adding of traditional dishes to the tourist establishments
menus: “The initiative will be a value addition to the emirate’s booming
tourism industry and will offer long-term benefits to the ever-expanding
hospitality sector through the expansion of the already-impressive menus.
However,
modern Dubai is not only proud of its cuisine but also in its traditional
sports like camel racing. They are conducted almost every weekend during the cool
months from late October to early April.
The races are enjoyed by every strata of society and are growing more
popular especially among expatriates and tourists.
Unlike horse racing throughout the world, they are only held for the
joy of the sport. There is no
betting and no one pays entrance fees.
Camel
racing in the UAE and in the other countries in the Arabian Peninsula came in
the neck of time to save the Arabian camel whose use had drastically declined.
These animals are now bred for camel racing - a desert sport which has
become a major industry, employing thousands of camels.
For
many sport lovers, horse racing, free with no charge or betting, held every
week during the cooler months is rapidly becoming one of the UAE's most
popular recreational activities - at times, attracting crowds of over 15,000.
It is said that this ‘sport of kings’ has found a true homeland in
the Arabian Peninsula - and this is as it should be.
The ancient home of the pure bred horse is reclaiming its heritage. This animal evolved into a modern majestic beast, as had its
pure bred ancestors in the past, and is today entertaining atop the sands of
Arabia inhabitant and visitor alike.
Leaving
the activities, we walked on a tiled pedestrian promenade until we came to the
focal point of the Heritage District - the totally renovated Sheikh Saeed Al
Maktoum House - once the ruler's residence and center of administration.
Built from coral covered with lime and plaster, it features carved
teakwood doors and windows, ventilating screens with floral and geometric
designs and
lattice screens. Located
next to the Heritage Village, it showcases
the history and development of the
Emirate of Dubai, dating back to 1896. A
symbol of the finest of traditional Arab
architecture, it
opened its doors as
a museum in 1996.
Standing
on one of its balconies, we surveyed the appealing panorama - a kaleidoscope
of contrasts of postcard beauty. Below
us there was a huge open space paved with colored tiles of elaborate design.
Beyond, along both banks of the Creek, the ancient blended well with
the ultra modern.
Abras and dhows vied for attention with stunning newly built sky-reaching structures. It is a kaleidoscope of contrasts of postcard beauty. This charming scene and the lure of the Heritage District have had a great hand in making Dubai an international business and tourism center which draws annually over 5 million visitors.
Facts About Dubai:
1)
Dubai has good connections with the rest of the world.
Some 106 airlines operate from the city to almost 160 destinations
worldwide. The airport has been
expanded and has become one of the world’s inter-continental transit centres,
processing some 22 million passengers. By
2010 visitors are expected to reach 60 million.
2)
Most western European, American and Canadian citizens can enter the UAE without
a prior visitor’s visa, they can obtain their visas at the entry points.
3)
Autos rent at a reasonable price. A
small auto, fully insured, costs about $30. per day - less if you bargain.
Roads are excellent, but beware of huge traffic jams and two legged
tigers driving autos.
4)
The U.S. dollar is equal to 3.67 UAE dirhams.
The rate has remained the same for over two decades.
Exchange cash or traveler checks at the money exchangers - they do not
take commission.
5)
A great way of seeing Dubai is to take a tour of the Creek by traditional dhow.
Some of Dubai’s major landmarks can be viewed from this waterway.
6)
Major international hotel chains are well represented in Dubai.
However, there are other very reasonably priced and excellent abodes to
be found throughout the city.
7)
In peoples’ eating places, one can dine for as low as $4., but the average
cost of meal in good restaurants and hotels runs from $20. to $50.
For luxury dining try the Al-Boom Tourist Village with its
series of restaurants - some located on dhows.
It specializes in Gulf dishes and all types of seafood.
8)
The best time to travel to Dubai is from mid January to mid February during the
month-long ‘Shopping Festival’ with its street parties as well as its
shopping sales and bargains, held in a carnival atmosphere.
9)
No travelers should leave Dubai without going on a desert safari with its sand
dunning, camel riding and desert feast.
10)
For other activities, attend some of the horse racing and camel racing events
held during the cool winter months.
11)
Dubai is a shoppers’ dream world - its more than 30 huge modern malls offer
the products of literally all the nations on the globe. The most popular gifts visitors take back home are: Arabian
coffee pots, silver and wooden miniature dhows, gold jewelry, Persian carpets
and Arabian curved daggers.
For Further Information, Contact:
Government of Dubai Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing, Tel: (971 4) 223 00 00. Fax: (971 4) 223 00 22. E-Mail: info@dubaitourism.co.ae; website: http://dubaitourism.co.ae
Habeeb Salloum is a Canadian freelance writer and author who has traveled to many parts of the world and has written comprehensively about the countries and their cuisines.
His email is: habeeb.salloum@sympatico.ca.
